What's
going on here?? - its the end of another business day in India.
The afterglow. Men are shouting, the dust hovers, the sun is low and golden
orange. In the distance are temple bells. Whatever was good or bad about
the day is over, and the street-race for home is on. The cyclerickshaws
and coolie carts are bundled high. The shouts are impatient, urgent and
there is a smell of over-ripened fruit and old dried piss. A merchant
wearing a Nehru hat and thick glasses calls out to me, commands me to
come over. Hey, its planet of the apes all over again. I look away.
Sorry mate, but fuck you very much. I dont answer to your beck and
call, for I am not what you think. I lean back on the saddle, knee raised,
flip-flop on the crossbar, and look away. Its an easy mistake to
make, but I am a white boy cyclerickshawallah and in this life, unlike
the last, cyclerickshawing is a game. I play it between eating, drinking,
and womanizing my way through a movie star life, for that is how the last
guy wished it, and I am his dream.
By
the time an Indian cyclerickshawallah reaches thirty his prostate is
polished to a shriveled little walnut. Ten years later, having burnt
more calories than he can afford to consume, his spine crumbles and
he fades into the night like a cheap Indian firework. I should know:
my pyre was small and the mourning brief for this is India, where the
tears of the poor are shed with care, with an economy. If all the tears
of India were suddenly to well up and begin falling, the sub-continent
would be washed into the sea.
So its hard to help the one million cyclerickshawallahs and their
families, but you can always give them money. I am their walking/talking
publicity stunt -
"Cycle
Rickshaw Crosses Nubian Desert."
"First Rickshaw in Arctic Circle."
"Rickshaw Crosses Greenland Icecap."
"First Bicycle Rickshaw Around the World."
In this round-about way, Im establishing
an annual day of recognition for them. It will be a working day, probably
the first working day after India's Republic Day in late January. Every
year, on that day Indian cyclerickshawallahs will be empowered to turn
around at the end of each journey and say to their clients, But
sahib,memsahib - this is MY day, so you
(eyes narrow) ...you give
me a little more today. Its called Cyclerickshawallah Day:
a day when Indians have the opportunity to salve a little bit of conscience,
and Indians are not insensitive they are just case-hardened.
If each rickshawallah manages to squeeze an extra dollar out of his
clients of that day, then that is an extra million dollars annually
that will cross the poverty line, but it's more than that - it's about
respect. I am not a charity. This is an initiative - the Indoopush Initiative.
This journey around the world on a rickshaw, for me is fun! And that
is, after all, what we are here for!!
If you want to help, sign up - join the illustrious group of the Indoopush-ups,
already numbering more than two hundred. It's a guaranteed good spectator
sport!"

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